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Before You Get Started
• Wood cooperage is porous
and can never be absolutely sterile. The treatments described
here are to be used to clean, detartrate, prevent microbacterial
growth, reduce the population, and retard the growth of
undesirable micro-organisms.
• When any chemical is introduced into wooden cooperage,
it will penetrate into the wood. The function of citric
acid is to neutralize any residual chemical. The neutralizing
step is very important and is for a longer duration of time
than the preceding step to assure deep penetration and neutralization
of any chemical residue. Citric acid is a mild cleansing
and bleaching agent and has a “sweetening” effect
on the wood.
• When adding any powder to a barrel, be sure it is
completely dissolved in water first. Some chemicals will
fall to the bottom and form a deposit as hard as plaster.
• When adding both citric acid and Sulphur dioxide
(S02 Potassium Metabisulphite) to a barrel, mix these solutions
separately. Citric acid is used to keep the water sweet
and to lower the pH of the water, so the SO2 is more active.
When a form of SO2 and citric acid are mixed together, SO2
will be released. This gas will irritate the eyes, noise,
throat, and lungs.
Methods
(Method A)
• Rinse the barrel with cold
water to remove the dust.
1. Then partially fill (1/3) with cold water and add the
citric acid (1 gram per liter of water)
2. - and the SO2 (0.2 grams per liter of water)
• Stand the barrel on head until the head is tight,
turn and repeat for the other head.
Note:
#1 - 23 grams citric acid = 5 teaspoons
#2 – 5 grams SO2 (metabisulfate) = 1 teaspoon

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE OF BARRELS
Methods Continued
• Lay the barrel horizontally, block so the bilge
is clear of the floor, and fill with cold water. Most barrels
are tight and do not leak, but some can and these may take
up to five days to tighten.
This is the mildest treatment for
preparing a new barrel; this is generally the method of
choice for achieving the greatest intensity of oak in red
wine.
(Method B)
• Rinse the barrel with cold
filtered water. Make sure to drain it well.
• After secondary fermentation is completed in the
carboys, filter the wine into barrels.
• Place airlock in bung hole.
• Age wine for 4 to 5 days, and then taste for desired
aroma. For a stronger oaking, leave wine in barrel for 10
to 14 days.
• Your wine is now ready to be bottled straight from
the barrel.
• Once the barrel is empty, fill it with citric acid-metabisulfate
solution until you are ready to fill the barrel with the
next batch of wine.
Note: the citric acid- metabisulfate
solution should be changed once every two weeks.
MAINTENANCE OF EMPTY BARRELS
(Method D)
Rinse to remove lees; drain; with
bung hole at the bottom, burn Sulphur Stick in hole so fumes
rise and go into the barrel; when finished remove the stick.
Add a new bung; store the barrel in a cool place. Remember
– wood will dry out if kept in a warm, dry environment.
• Sulphur stick – burn ¼ stick for barrels
between 18-56 Litre’s and a ½ stick for barrels
between 56-112 Litres.
o Must be repeated 6 -8 weeks
o Follow method A) prior to reusing your barrel.
We recommend using a Mildewcide coating to prevent exterior
mold and possible wood worms.


Prepared by: Barrel Imports
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